Colorado’s Sandwich Heroes

WHEN FOOD & WINE recently went looking for “The Best Sandwich in Every State,” the publication sought those handheld meals “with an extreme sense of belonging, the sandwiches people would fight for, and possibly over.” In Colorado, the editors chose the hot Italian sausage sub with provolone and peppers at Carmine Lonardo’s Deli.

That sandwich, while exceptional, is not even my favorite at this Lakewood institution. It got me thinking about Colorado’s best examples, and I ran into a messy question: What is—and isn’t—a sandwich?

Although I dearly love them all, burgers, hot dogs, lobster rolls and barbecue on buns don’t qualify.

A truly great sandwich is composed like a song. Each ingredient is essential—the condiments and spreads, the meats and cheeses and veggies and how they are cut and layered so every bite is an experience.

These edible icons are so famous they often simply have “The” in front of a name. Think about The Reuben, The BLT, The French Dip and The Club, not to mention all the grinders, hoagies, heroes and subs.

The right sandwich loaf is critical whether it’s a baguette, ciabatta slices or a seeded bun, because it provides structural integrity. A sand- wich that falls apart—that you can’t eat without a knife and fork, doesn’t fit the traditional definition.

The man the sandwich is named after, John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich (the English city that this month will host the Open Championship at Royal St. Georges), famously requested something he could eat with one hand while continuing to play cards and gamble.

Some notable sandwiches have strong connections to Colorado (see page 43) and the state has birthed well-regarded sandwich-shop chains including Etai’s Bakery Café, Snarf’s Sandwiches and Quiznos. After some seriously tasty research, here are my candidates for Colorado’s most exceptional sandwiches.

THE L.E.S. at Rosenberg’s Bagels

Rosenberg’s bakes the best authentic bagels in Colorado. For the L.E.S., top-notch pastrami, melted Swiss cheese and tangy coleslaw fills a toasted bagel—my choice is their pumpernickel everything variety.