Union Bistro | Castle Rock
MATE OF THE UNION: Co-owner Dennis Dickey takes good care of his patrons and his people.
The x-factor for any restaurant’s success is how well the operators balance aesthetics and economics. Union Bistro has it down. It’s owned by Dennis and Christina Dickey and chef Kim Heideman, all of whom previously worked for PB&J Restaurants in Kansas City. Dennis didn’t want to get lost in the shuffle of Denver restaurants, so he’s happy being the big fish in Castle Rock’s little pond. He’s “big into quality of life,” which is why Union closes every Sunday and Monday (Dennis, an avid golfer, tries to play at Red Hawk or Bear Dance during the latter) as well as threeday holiday weekends. This results in a loyal staff. Every year, Union shuts down for a week around the Fourth of July, and employees are encouraged to vacation or assist in whatever renovation the owners have cooked up. Among this year’s projects: expanding the bar and adding two temperature-controlled wine storage units. Upon completion, the co-owners took six staffers and their significant others to Napa for “fun, education and culture.”
BRAT PACKED: Union’s signature jalapeño bratwurst burger with homemade pickle relish
That mindset trickles down to a palpable undercurrent of joy and satisfaction at Union Bistro. Happy Hour seems even happier for patrons, and the bar and wooden patio out front fills up 2-6 p.m. Saturdays bring $5 martinis all day, with 22 different kinds of martinis (serving an average of 250 martinis, but I was left too tipsy to do the math). Besides discounted drinks, the main Happy Hour attraction is the discounted “Little Plates.” The Thai Flatbread (which resembles a grilled chicken pizza with sweet and spicy peanut sauce and a salad on top) and the Beef Flatbread are staples, and the Blackened Fish Tacos, Poke Tuna Nachos and Italian Egg Rolls are also delicious and big enough to share. Salads change seasonally, but the Steak salad—tenderloin and romaine lettuce tossed with blue cheese, roasted potatoes, crispy onions and brandied cherries—isn’t going anywhere. Dennis created the Jalapeño Bratwurst Burger, a pork-and-beef-roast patty, because he loved bratwurst but hated the casing; the kitchen guys roast the jalapeños, make their own pickle relish and use a local brewery’s stout in their dry mustard. The signature entree is The Chop, a double-bone pork chop (brined for 24 hours in salt, sugar, basil and even lavender flowers) served with apple chutney and cider whole grain mustard; you can get a half-order for lunch. The well-stocked bar serves only domestic wines, which are half-price on Wednesdays. Heideman plants her own herbs and vegetables in gardens by the restaurant, and she accommodates vegans and anyone with a food allergy; there’s even a separate grill to prepare gluten-free foods. Their efforts add up to a cozy, upbeat experience and the thought that nice guys can finish first. Somewhere, Gordon Ramsay is crying.
3 Wilcox St. 303- 688-8159; unionamericanbistro.com
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