The South Restaurant
When one of the local beat writers for the Denver Broncos recently proclaimed Louis Vasquez as the team’s first All-Pro at the offensive guard position, this fan took issue. In the American Football League days, the Broncos weren’t very good, but when the local Coca-Cola bottling plant stamped the likenesses of players inside the bottle caps, I rode my bike to every gas station in Arvada to fish them out of vending machines with a magnet to support my favorite 4-10 squad. So I remember what a big deal it was when guard Jerry Sturm got selected to play in two AFL Pro Bowls.
In the 1960s, everything in Denver went through the prism of Chicano culture, so it’s not surprising that Jerry developed an appreciation for good Mexican cuisine. He procured some authentic recipes and opened the South Restaurant in Englewood— and has been there for 48 years with his wife Deb (they’ve also launched Zi South in Denver’s ballpark neighborhood with son Brett, who played defensive back at San Diego State).
Walking into the South is like hanging out in my bedroom when I was twelve. The hallway entrance is festooned with AFL trading cards and Broncos official team photos from the earliest days of the franchise. Look, there’s Bob Scarpitto, the flanker who doubled as the team’s punter (“Scraps” would fake the kick and take off running…without letting the team or coaching staff know). Hey, don’t forget Billy Joe, the fullback from Villanova afflicted with bunions (back then I figured they were a snack food).
There are enough TVs and sports paraphernalia for the South to qualify as a sports bar, but it has the vibe of a sit-down restaurant and lounge. The décor is “Jerry-rigged”—tricked out in his memorabilia and trophies (including a member-guest winner in the 1971 Lakewood Country Club golf tournament), even customized wall sconces (my favorite is the one with Jerry in classic pulling-guard pose).
I worship at this shrine to my childhood, but food took precedence on my most recent visit. The South has long been the “home of the Quesorito.” Taco Bell has introduced its new “Quesarito” concoction, but gringos, don’t be confused—“quesa” is the tip that it’s a quesadilla-wrapped burrito. (It strikes me—I’m glad that a soft drink rather than Taco Bell affiliated with the Broncos defense; otherwise the Orange Crush might have been known as the Orange Goo.)
The South’s Quesorito puts the emphasis on the “queso,” or cheese—fresh ground beef with a savory seasoning, rolled in a flour tortilla with cheese, lettuce and tomatoes and smothered with more cheese and a special sauce (that has always remained a secret) and baked. It’s more delicious than intimidating, and like Mom always said, never eat anything bigger than a football.
But then there’s Brett’s Queso Burrito, another favored specialty, a grande burrito stuffed with marinated fajita steak or chicken, Spanish rice, black beans, sautéed sweet onions and spicy con queso dip, smothered with melted cheddar cheese and topped with red and green chile so it’s Christmas all the time.
A key to the South’s longevity has been quality ingredients and fresh flavorful sauces for the masses, but know that the heat can be added for painseekers. Behind the bar, Bryn recommends the White Enchilada platter—two white cheese enchiladas smothered with green and loaded with Monterey Jack cheese. The restaurant nails American cuisine as well—server Sarah swears by the Deluxe Hamburger.
Low staff turnover is another hallmark, and I must say, I dig the old jock in Jerry—he obviously values customer service in a welcoming atmosphere, but refuses service to people wearing tank tops or sleeveless shirts. Have a little respect, you punks!
3535 S. Huron St.; 303-789-9833; thesouthrestaurant.com
Colorado AvidGolfer is the state’s leading resource for golf and the lifestyle that surrounds it. It publishes eight issues annually and proudly delivers daily content via www.coloradoavidgolfer.com.
