Old Capitol Grill | Golden

Here’s a great way to experience historic downtown Golden. The brick Loveland building was the first capitol building of the Colorado Territory, when Golden and Denver were vying to be the capital city. By 1971 it had been turned into a restaurant (the Mercantile) and has been home of the Old Capitol Grill since 1997. Check out the Cowboy Room for memorabilia that chronicles the people who saved and restored the restaurant after a 2005 roof fire. You want trendy, look elsewhere—the Grill’s menu hasn’t changed since the doors opened 17 years ago.

In the Soups, Salads and Sandwiches category, the Capital Punishment Chili isn’t cruel, but it is unusual—a bowl of red, with a seasoned three-meat blend (ground beef, pork and chunks of sirloin) to give a nice depth to the taste and texture; get it served in sourdough bread bowl. The most popular sandwich is the Steer on a Roll, a Western take on a French dip, but I’m enamored of the Buffalo Melt, simply the best buffalo patty I’ve encountered—a 1/2-pound of meat (as are all of their burgers), with Texas toothpicks (breaded deep-fried pepper strips), grilled onions, American cheese and ranch dressing, served on a moist, chewy bun.

The meals are equally worthy, with a twist. The Miners Pot Roast is served over an enormous baked potato; the Pioneer Fried Steak gets plated with scalloped potatoes, not mashers (both are served with melt-in-your-mouth Texas toast—that’s not funny, that’s thick). Steaks are USDA choice beef, and there’s a selection of fresh fish daily; all can be ordered charbroiled or blackened. But here’s an insider tip courtesy of tourists from the East Coast who make the Grill a destination—the Fish and Chips is better than anything back home in cod’s country.

1122 Washington Avenue, Golden; 303-279-6390

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