The Secret to Getting a Tee Time at Scotland’s Most Exclusive Courses

Scotland’s Old Course, North Berwick, Carnoustie and other greats are accessible with planning, luck and a spirit of adventure

Story and Photos By Jim Bebbington

A trip with buddies to northeast Scotland can be one of the best golf experiences a player can have. It is home to St. Andrews’ seven courses, Carnoustie’s famous Hogan’s Alley, the breathtaking charm and challenge of North Berwick (pronounced: ‘Bear-ick’), the beautiful vistas of the Gullane complex, and many, many others.

It can also leave your wallet a smoking ruin of smoldering ash.

Here’s a little secret about most of the top, exclusive courses in Scotland – they want you to come. Getting a tee time isn’t impossible – with planning. But the costs of golf there can be very high – $400 for Old Course summer 2024; Kings Barns up the hill is more than $500 –  visitors pay top-rate so that local members can play at a substantial discount. They’re glad we’re there.

Now, how do you make it happen – and keep the costs under control?

WHEN TO GO

The Scots have a saying – if you’re going to wait until it stops raining to play golf, you’ll never play.

Summer is always the best chance to get clear, warm days in Scotland. However, just as in Colorado, it is very possible to plan for a round in December or January and get crisp, cool, calm weather; throw on a sweater and you are all set. But, you can also get blasted sideways by howling winds and pelting rain. True story: visiting in 2016 for Hogmanay (one of the world’s largest New Year’s Eve celebrations that has to be seen to be believed) I booked a foursome at Bruntsfield Golf Club in Edinburgh. The days had been highs in the 50s and clear all week. The morning of our round we got into the cab and by the time we reached Bruntsfield four inches of snow fell. The course staff were very supportive and would have let us play, hitting from tiny plastic mats we would have had to carry with us. We took the cab back, disappointed.

Takeaway: Look for travel and golf deals at off-peak times of the year and take your chances; tee time costs can be cut by two-thirds.

PLAYING CARNOUSTIE’S CHAMPIONSHIP COURSE GIVES A CHANCE TO RELIVE EITHER BEN HOGAN’S BRITISH OPEN GREATNESS OR JEAN VAN DE VELDE’S COLLAPSE.

WHERE TO STAY

If you want to feel young again – as in ‘Hey, look at me! I’m in college again!’ young – you cannot do better than staying in the dorms at either St. Andrews University or the University of Edinburgh in the summertime. Room rates are some of the least expensive in town. So too, often, is the quality of the furniture in your room. You will be staying in actual dorms used by actual students – you remember what those are like, right? Feel free to shudder. But, they are clean and convenient, and in Edinburgh, you will be surrounded at the daily cafeteria breakfast by fellow adults – vacationers, musicians in town for Fringe Fest, touring motorcycle clubs whose intimidating-looking bikes hide the fact that most of them are high school teachers, librarians and retired postal workers.

Takeaway: Rather than try to publish a gigantic URL to the two websites, we recommend you Google “Summer accommodation” and the name of either St. Andrews University or Edinburgh University. Summer rates during the high season can be found for about $250 a night for two people.

WHEN TO BOOK

This is the key to a Scotland golf vacation – plan it a year in advance. Travel groups and agencies are there for your last-minute trips. Many can book you straight into nice places and get good tee times but will be charging a premium for doing that. For tee times in particular, the courses at St. Andrews Links tee time bookings begin in late August each summer for the following year. Want to stay in a nice AirBnB in Edinburgh in August, during their 30-day Fringe Fest celebration? So do about 500,000 other people. Book early for the best deals.

LOOKING BACK FROM THE OLD COURSE TO DOWNTOWN ST. ANDREWS

HOW TO GET A TEE TIME

There is a ton of great golf to be had without playing the St. Andrews Old Course. But no other course can make adults hug on the 18th green feeling they have accomplished something special. Here’s how to get out.

1. Use the annual lottery. It opened on Aug. 30 and closed for entries on Sept. 20, 2023. It’s highly competitive but it’s the best first option and you will never forget the day you get the email telling you ‘You’re in.’

2. Keep checking their tee time page:

standrews.com/request-a-tee-time – At some point after the lottery people are accommodated, they’re going to turn on the page for 2024 bookings. It may not have any openings for your days there, but you never know.

3. Just go, and enter the daily lottery: This is your next best option. Set your plans and go – then enter the Old Course lottery for tee times 48 hours later. You enter by 10 a.m. and by 5 p.m. you get an email notifying you if you got a tee time for two days later. Then be prepared to drop everything and enjoy the round of your life. The course is closed on Sundays to play, so don’t bother entering on Friday.

4. Camp out: Every night a line begins forming at the starter shack for the Old Course beginning at 10 pm. It’s an honor system and everyone new who gets there just asks the crowd ‘Who’s last?’ and they are now in the back until the next person shows up. Then you go to sleep on the grass, or benches, take turns sleeping in your cars, in sleeping bags.  Around 6 a.m. the starter shows up and starts tucking the overnight crew into the tee sheet openings. That can be zero openings or more than a dozen. But then the rest of the line waits and as booked foursomes show up, they often have someone not show. The starter calls out the next name and if you’re nearby, you’re in. Saturday mornings are considered the best chance because many golfers go hard in the paint the night before and don’t get up in time for their rounds.

The saddest part is the people who show up at 6. They’ve been told the starter starts dolling out daily tee times at 6, which is true, but they don’t know the line begins forming at 10 p.m. the night before. Both times I’ve been around at the tee box at 6 a.m. folks show up and walked away crushed.

NORTH BERWICK. PHOTO BY JOHN VANDERLAAN

A trip with buddies to northeast Scotland can be one of the best golf experiences a player can have. It is home to St. Andrews’ seven courses, Carnoustie’s famous Hogan’s Alley, the breathtaking charm and challenge of North Berwick and many others.

THE LINE FOR AN OLD COURSE TEE TIME AT 6 A.M. MOST OF THE GOLFERS SLEPT IN LINE OVERNIGHT.

PLAY THE OTHER GREATS

• The other six St. Andrews courses and four of them offer great challenges: New Course, Jubilee, Eden and Castle. Eden is the hidden gem – it’s the least expensive, $85, and a perfect first round for the week to get ready for what’s to come.

• Carnoustie is an hour’s drive north of Edinburgh and is very worth the trip. It is considered the hardest British Open course and it can absolutely murder you if you hit from way back. One trick: agree to take four singles slots if that’s all that open when you book. Then keep in touch with the nice people in the pro shop, and they will work your group together as a foursome if they can. Buy a hat – the course has the coolest logo and crest in the UK.

• In the town of Carnoustie there are also a bunch of other courses; two others on the grounds of the Carnoustie Championship course and another course, Panmure, is right across the street.

• There are no bad options in the Edinburgh area. Kilspindie is a tiny dot along the coast that can feature winds that will have you hitting the driver on short par 3s. The Gullane courses are all good, but the No. 1 course features a breathtaking view from the No. 7 tee box from where you can see everything from Muirfield, North Berwick all the way to downtown Edinburgh. The first six holes are pleasant diversions – then the claws come out as you near the water.

• North Berwick has to be played to be believed. Your head will spin from the wall, the blind greens, and the No. 1 and 18 combo that mirrors the Old Course but has even more contour and undulations. This course is special.

Takeaway: Like dogs, there are no bad boys or girls here. Go and enjoy.

 


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