Il Bistro Italiano | Grand Junction
Raised in the small Italian village of Bibbiano, Brunella Gualerzi learned to cook at her mama’s knee. Her travels brought her to Grand Junction over 20 years ago, and as chef and owner of Il Bistro Italiano, she’s a stickler for authentic Italian cuisine, setting the standard for the Grand Valley’s most consistently excellent food. She also offers featured events such as cooking classes, special Tapas Nights ($22 for all-you-can-eat small plates of assorted meat, vegetarian and fish dishes) and a “Split the Wheel” dinner where she gives a lesson on cutting a large wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese imported from her sister’s factory (it takes several different knives—more like chisels—to crack them so the texture and structure remains intact).
My most recent experience at Il Bistro consisted of several spectacular courses. The Calamari, the signature appetizer, had an appealing citrus pop in the breading that rendered the lemon garlic cream sauce accompaniment moot. A plate of soft warm bread came with a delicious spread involving roasted red peppers, pimento, cream cheese, ricotta and a hint of red chili pepper.
Bunella is big on seasonal entrees such as Ossobuco di Bisonte, a Colorado bison shank slowly braised with tomatoes and white wine and served with saffron risotto. It was giving way on the menu to a spring dish, Capesante e Asparagi, combining bay scallops, fresh asparagus with roasted tomatoes, shallots, white wine and a touch of cream with garganelli pasta.
Of the standard entrees, the simple Scaloppina al Limone was my table’s favorite, an incredibly tender all-natural chicken breast sauteed in a lemon and white wine sauce, served with roasted garlic mashed potatoes and vegetables. But I stoned my fellow diners with the Rosetta—house made pasta rolled with rosemary ham and provolone cheese, baked and served with spicy tomato cream sauce. This kind of rustic, homemade Italian dish isn’t found in many Colorado restaurants, and it was spectacular.
Wines are researched by region, and the perfect accompaniment to my repast was a bottle of Scaia, made from the Corvina grape (also used in the production of Valpolicella); I couldn’t stop playing with the nifty glass stopper…or drinking, for that matter. I’ve been lucky to have enjoyed the wide variety of regional Tiramisu throughout Italy (it’s like their potato salad), and the recipe at Il Bistro Italiano tipped me into a classic ladyfinger/coffee/marscapone jag.
Everything about the meal worked that night. Of the well-versed and entrenched staff, we drew the “young one,” Nicholas Moore, who has waited tables for several years while attending Colorado Mesa University (nee Mesa State College); Brunella displays his inspired scenic photography on the walls. My only regret was that I missed Mama puttering in the back of the kitchen—she visits from the homeland several times a year. I’d pay extra to be given the command: “Mangia!”
400 Main Street 970-243-8662; ilbistroitaliano.com
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