FAREWAYS: Parisi

Because its delicatessen was the first place in Denver that I could find castelvetrano olives (buttery, bright green orbs of deliciousness), Parisi has always held a special place in my heart, stomach and other emotion-friendly organs.

A recently procured liquor license means the deli has been downsized for a handsome bar area. But the food function is still wonderful—casual counter service, and deftly presented entrees delivered to your cloth-napkin-fancy table. The pollo al mattone—herbed chicken roasted under a brick Tuscan-style—is mighty tasty, but try the polpettore, a succulent, savory mound of seasoned meatloaf baked in a crunchy crust of bacon (cue Homer Simpson drooling sound). That liquor license is put to good use, with lots of specialty cocktails and under-the-radar Italian wines; I had a glass (okay, two) of Neprica, from the province of Puglia, in the heel of the boot. The deli still delivers with gelato and espresso, freezer-ready meals or, on 24-hour notice, any meats and cheeses to order.

Buono!

4401 Tennyson St., Denver, C0 80212
(303) 561-0234
parisidenver.com

For more reviews of West Highland restaurants near Willis Case, pick up a copy of our May issue